“An Unassuming Place”
“You can miss it on a map. On a continent of big skies, big game, and big challenges, the little country of Malawi is an unassuming place. But it embodies the greatest contradictions of our time: poverty and generosity, urgency and serenity, despair and hope.”
When Bono spoke these words in 2006, he captured the essence of Malawi. Returning here this October, I found that while the “warm heart” remains, it is beating under the immense pressure of a shifting economy and a harsh climate.
The Rising Cost of Living
The volatility of life here is felt most keenly in the pocketbook. On September 28th, a bus ticket from Lilongwe to Mzuzu cost approximately 25,000 kwacha (roughly £13 at the official rate). Just ten days later, the price had more than doubled. On October 1st, petrol prices surged by over 25%, sending shockwaves through the economy. In a country where so much is imported, a spike in fuel costs changes the price of everything—most critically, food.
Malawi is currently in the grip of the hot season. The rains, essential for planting and the survival of this landlocked nation, have yet to arrive. “Hunger months” and food insecurity are not just concepts here; they are the staples of daily conversation. As we traveled from the airport, we passed the massive concrete silos—built by the British before independence in the 1960s—that store the national reserves of nsima (maize). While newer, privately owned silos are emerging, reliance on neighboring Zambia for maize imports underscores a fragile food security system.
The Crisis of Obstetric Fistula
I was joined on this journey by Ms. Dannette Haley and Mrs. Eirene Carson to investigate the challenges surrounding obstetric fistula. Our most sobering visit was to the Bwaile Fistula Centre in Lilongwe. There, we met a woman who had waited 28 years for a repair operation.
The statistics are staggering:
- 15,000: The current backlog of women waiting for surgery.
- 1,800: New cases occurring every year.
- 900: The country’s current annual capacity for repair operations.
The backlog continues to grow, making prevention more critical than ever. Interestingly, a policy change 15 years ago—intended to move births from traditional attendants to hospitals—has had unintended consequences. Without the necessary infrastructure and personnel to support the influx, 80% of fistulas in Malawi now occur within hospital settings. It is a heartbreaking irony that requires urgent systemic change.
Journeying Through the Country
Our mission took us across Malawi’s landscape. Alongside Eirene, a midwife from Northern Ireland, I traveled north to Mzuzu and south to Balaka, Zomba, and Blantyre. We visited hospitals and health centers, engaging with local church leaders and medical staff.
In Balaka, we arrived on October 19th, the 24th anniversary of the burial of Fr. Anthony O’Boyle. Staying with the Spiritan community, we shared a poignant moment of prayer for Fr. Anthony. May he rest in peace.
While a final planned meeting with Archbishop George Tambala of Lilongwe did not materialize due to scheduling, his initial welcome and engagement with his health group laid a foundation for future collaboration.
A Flowing River of Hope
I am reminded of the title of Fritz Perls’ book: Don’t Push the River, It Flows by Itself. Sometimes, the challenges in Malawi feel like a rushing current. Yet, on my final day, a conversation with a Ministry of Health staff member provided a surge of hope. There are dedicated people within the Malawian system deeply committed to restoring the dignity of women who have long been forgotten.
My sincere thanks to the MMM community in Lilongwe and to Fr. Frank Taylor, SPS, for their exceptional hospitality and support throughout this journey.
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